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Lesson 1: Introduction to Lighting & Equipment´s archives ↓

Lesson 1: Page 01


LESSON 1: UNDERSTANDING LIGHT AND EQUIPMENT

One of the fundamental skills that any photographer must develop is mastering light. They need to see it, use it, and create it. Lighting defines a successful photo! Think of how light affects the world around you. The landscape is shaped by light and gives you a visual story in showing the layout of the land by defining textures within the landscape. In the studio, lighting for a portrait provides you the visual information about that person, the color of their hair, the shape of their face, and the color of their The content you are trying to access is only available to members. Sorry.

Lesson 1: Page 02

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Lesson 1: Page 03

Umbrellas: These are probably the most widely used lighting accessories and have multiple uses. Umbrellas come with a variety of reflective surfaces and include soft white, soft silver metallic, silver, and gold. Your choice of umbrella surfaces is determined by the quality of light you wouldlike to have.  A soft white umbrella will produce a soft, low contrast light, with soft edged shadows. A silver umbrella will produce a hard light with more contrast and hard edged shadows. The size of the umbrella also affects the highlight/shadow relationship. A small umbrella will create a smaller spread of light creating more contrast between highlights and shadows. A larger umbrella will have less contrast between highlights and shadows.

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Lesson 1: Page 04

To assemble the light box, you need a speed ring. You begin by placing one shaft at a time into the holes until the last one, which will require an effort of slightly bending the shaft to insert it into the speed ring. Most rings have a flange that should face the direction of the flash head and the camera.The content you are trying to access is only available to members. Sorry.

Lesson 1: Page 05

Lights:

I have both studio strobe power packs, where the light head plugs into the power pack, and mono lights, where each light is the power pack and strobe head in one package. I use the power pack and heads when in the studio or location, and when I need lots of power output. The camera and film format often dictate this, but so can the photo shoot situation.

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Lesson 1: Page 06

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Lesson 1: Page 07

In a portrait setup with two heads, you would place one head on the right socket set at 800 and a second head on the left set at 400 WS. This gives you a one stop difference key/fill light situation. If you place two heads into the same group, you are then splitting the power setting between the two. For example, if two heads are set on the left group and the switch is at 400 WS, then each head has 200WS coming out of it. The modeling light rheostats are for increasing or decreasing the brightness of the modeling light and help you see ratios. Never turn the power on a power pack on or off without a head being plugged into it. When you turn off the power pack, it often discharges the capacitor through the light head by flashing. If you turn the power off without a flash head there is potential for the capacitor to explode.

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Lesson 1: Page 08

Guide Numbers

Guide number is the power designation given to amateur flash or flashes designed as on camera. This is a more accurate designation to actual flash output than watt seconds. It will not be important to this course, but the higher the guide number, the more powerful your on-camera flash. 

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Lesson 1: Page 09

 

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Lesson 1: Page 10

Notice when the diffuser is placed next to the strobe, the diffusers effect is non existent as indicated by the hard edge shadows on the products.

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