Over and Under
Here are two approaches to glamour style lighting. The portrait on left was shot using two light boxes; a large box right above camera and a small box right under camera at -1/2 stop. I also used a small light box on a boom above and slightly behind her head to create a very broad hair light. I also used a Nikon Soft 1 diffusion filter. The right image was shot using a 72×72” Lightform ‘shoot through’ diffusion panel which created a huge soft light source. The panel was behind the camera which meant I stood in front of it with camera.
This image is an excellent example of Glamour Lighting. A former student of mine, LeeAnne Martin, used two eclipse umbrellas on camera right, one below and the other above the subject and set at a power setting to achieve f/8.5 and render a combined F11 reading (@125th). She then placed a rectangular reflector under the model in front of the camera and a bit above the height of her waist. She also gelled the background light blue onto a medium grey muslin backdrop. Then she had the model move a bit forward to capture the highlights in her eyes. And one last point, LeeAnne used a professional makeup artist and that makes a big difference. (Photo is Copyright LeeAnne Martin)
As a photographer, you photograph many subjects for the joy of doing photography. If you are a nature photographer, you wander is search of the perfect picture. As a portrait photographer you may also wander in search of the perfect picture, but in a different way. If you are like me, you constantly observe, look at other photographs, and watch TV, all in an effort to find stimulation for ideas that would make great photographs. I have seen photographs that motivated me 20 years ago and they still are in my photo memory bank.
This photo represents a glamor technique widely used among photographers. It starts with two key lights, small strip lights on each side of the camera and close to it. Both lights are at equal power to provide a directional yet soft light. If you look at the catch light you see two strip highlights indicating this technique was used.
A soft silver reflector is also used under the subject to bounce light into the shadow side under the chin, nose, and eye sockets. This reflector is up as high as you can get it without seeing it.